Aubergine caponata
Historical curiosities
Caponata is a typical Mediterranean dish, included in the national list of traditional agricultural and food products. It consists of a combination of vegetables, mostly fried, with eggplant as the main ingredient.
The eggplant was introduced to Sicily by the Arabs (or perhaps later by the Carmelite friars who helped spread it throughout the rest of Italy). Its name was interpreted as " unhealthy apple ," from the Latin malum insanum, because it was believed to be toxic, even to the point of causing madness. For this reason, the eggplant was, at least until the 16th century, a vegetable used primarily by the lower and middle classes.
According to the Arab doctor Ibn Botlan (one of the authors of Tacuinum Sanitatis, the first natural science encyclopedia now kept at the Casanatense Library in Rome), the aubergine generated "melancholy moods";
Widespread throughout the Mediterranean, today it is generally used as a side dish or appetizer, but in the past it was a single dish, accompanied by bread. There are two types of caponata: one prepared exclusively with vegetables and one that also contains fish. The Sicilian caponata is basically the vegetarian one, also known as "poor man's caponata".
The etymology of the term "caponata" is uncertain, there are several theories, here are some:
a) the term derives from the "capones", called sailor biscuits, also called "crackers" consumed by Spanish sailors who used to give flavor and soften these biscuits with a sweet and sour sauce. These biscuits were substantially similar to those we know today as “freselle”, long-lasting slices of durum wheat or whole-grain bread toasted and much appreciated in Campania, Calabria and Puglia;
b) the term derives from the "capone", the name with which in some areas of Sicily it is called the 'lampuga', a fish with a prized meat. The sweet and sour fried capone is a traditional Sicilian recipe that recalls, in taste, the caponata for the presence of the sweet and sour sauce (vinegar plus honey, or vinegar plus sugar). The poor, unable to afford fish, replaced it with cheaper eggplants;
c) the term derives from the Latin "caupona", ie tavern or hostess, where this dish was always ready to be served and the adjective "cauponia", thus coming to mean "tavern food". It is however probable that in ancient times the caponata was very different from the one we know today, since the aubergine was not yet known.
Among the fish-based caponata, the caponata that Ippolito Cavalcanti reports in his book "Theoretical-practical cooking with corresponding answer", published in Naples in 1839, is quite well known. (At the bottom of the page the book by Cavalcanti, go to page 183 of the book to read the recipe.)
Recipe
Clean the aubergines, cut them into cubes, salt them and keep them in a colander, under a weight for at least half an hour, in order to make them lose the bitter liquid, then dry them and fry them in abundant oil.
Cut into cubes and fry the potatoes as well.
In a large saucepan, fry the finely sliced onions a little, then add the celery cut into small pieces, the chopped tomatoes, the olives and the capers; add salt and pepper and cook for 40 minutes, stirring often.
A few minutes before removing from the heat, add the sugar and vinegar. Serve cold.
variants
There are many variations of the aubergine caponata, depending on the place which involve the use of pepper, potato, zucchini and many other vegetables such as carrots, spinach, cauliflower, thistles, chicory. In some places, breadcrumbs and anchovy fillets also come into play.
In some cases the toughest vegetables (celery, any carrots, etc.) are blanched for 2-3 minutes in boiling water before being added to the aubergines. Some variations include fresh tomato sauce instead of chopped tomatoes, in this way the caponata is more "colored" and the vegetables are less prominent.
In the Catania version the ingredients consist of: aubergines, peppers, tomatoes, onions, celery, garlic, green olives, potatoes, capers, pine nuts, basil, vinegar, oil, salt, pepper.
In the Agrigento version the ingredients are: aubergines, peppers , tomatoes, white onion, celery, green olives, black olives, capers, carrots, cucumbers, vinegar, honey, sugar, garlic, oil and chilli pepper.
From the network:
here is another contribution:
Product included in the national list of traditional agri-food products (PAT)
PAT Type : Gastronomy Products
Production Area :
Technical data sheet of the traditional agri-food product (PAT)
Production area: Western Sicily.
Brief product description: Mixed fried aubergine chunks, celery pieces, pitted green olives, tomato sauce, onion, capers, sugar and vinegar.
Description of the processing and curing methods: The eggplants are removed from the stalks, cut into irregular cubes, and salted and fried. The tomato sauce is prepared with boiled celery pieces, desalted green olives, capers, white wine vinegar, sugar, and sautéed onion.
Specific materials and equipment used for preparation and conditioning: No specific equipment.
Description of processing, storage, and maturing areas: Food processing facilities and domestic environments.
Evidence that the methodologies have been practiced consistently and according to traditional rules for a period of no less than 25 years: Nuovo Dizionario Siciliano – Italiano by V. Mortillaro 1986. AA.VV. Grande enciclopedia illustrata della Gastronomia Rider's Digest Milano 1990.
Profumi di Sicilia, the book of Sicilian Cuisine by G. Coria Ed. Cavalletto Palermo 1981.
Source Pat Cards: Sicily Region
Card insertion: Ignazio Caloggero
Informational contributions : Web, Sicily Region
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